This is the small modification of the inexpensive 1: 8 RC car damper for use in my cyclic base.
These dampers usually only contain a few drops of an undefined oil. So that the dampers generate a certain resistance, I fill these dampers with a highly viscous oil that is normally used for RC car differentials.
I also exchange the ball joints for another type of KAVAN (3 mm maxi for RC aircraft) because the mounted ball joints are too loose.
Due to a customer comment, I am now making another adjustment:
The "piston" almost always has about 1 mm play on the piston rod and can therefore move 1 mm without resistance. This is noticeable on the control stick with up to 1cm.
After removing the ball socket, the piston rod can be pulled out of the damper.
Then I remove the E-shaped locking ring with a fine screwdriver. The piston can now be easily pulled off the piston rod.
Now I put the small glass fiber ring, Ø7mm hole Ø3.7mm 1mm thick, on the locking ring and put the piston back on. The E-ring then secures the piston back onto the piston rod.
After inserting the piston, I turn the KAVAN Maxi ball socket onto the piston rod.
Now I clamp the cylinder loosely vertically in a small vice and fill in the diff oil up to approx. 2 mm below the cylinder edge.
To remove the air from what is now the lower area, I slowly push the piston up halfway and slowly pull it out again after a while (approx. 1-2 minutes). A few air bubbles rise through the piston.
I continue this process until no more air bubbles come through the flask.
When the bubbles have reached the surface, I screw on the cover with the compensating membrane.
Put the spring on if you want, done.
These mods result in an almost no longer jerky damper with no idle travel.
